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COVID-Locked In Ecuador : Why I Stayed

What is it like to be visiting a country when its government gives 24-hour notice of border closing in response to a global pandemic? No transport by air, land, or sea; in, out, or within the country. Why did I choose to stay in Ecuador instead of taking a State Department evacuation flight back to the USA?

I left Dallas TX 4 March 2020 to begin my global nomad life with a ‘6 Countries x 6 Months itinerary for the first year. I started wearing a mask during flights in August 2019 after a 10-hour return from Argentina in June left me with a bad upper respiratory infection that took 2 months and a series of powerful antibiotic doses to shake. Early March 2020 I was the only one wearing a mask on this flight.
The first case of COVID-19 in Ecuador was diagnosed in Guayaquil on 29 February. When I landed there 5 March, protection measures were already in place. At Passport Control all staff and many passengers arriving from other parts of the world; i.e., not the USA, were wearing mask.
Throughout the airport there were many signs providing instructions for proper sanitizing; but mask wearing was not yet required.
When I walked along the Guayas River Malecon in Guayaquil on 8 March, little did we know that within a month the city would become the epicenter of Ecuador’s COVID-19 devastation. There is significant socioeconomic disparity in this city of 2.5+ million. Clean water for drinking --let alone sanitation-- is not available to 35% of the population.
17 March I took the last flight from Cuenca to Quito, rushing to be in a city with an international airport before the beginning of the midnight lockdown which would also suspend domestic flights. As I waited in the airport lounge, I noticed that protocols had clearly stepped up. A health counselor handed out COVID protection info flyers and masks to all passengers.
Cultural Detail : In many Latin American countries, you should bring your own toilet paper (or packet of tissues) when using a public restroom. It’s rare to find even this singular centrally located dispenser provided at the Cuenca airport.
Notice all the CANCELLED flights! Upon arrival in Quito at 8:30p, the country was already actively COVID-locked. No air, sea or land entry OR exit; domestic or international. At least now I was in an international airport city. Whenever the restrictions lifted, ready to roll!
Due to the 9p-5a curfew which started that same night, we couldn't get a taxi or Uber for the 35-minute ride into Quito. We booked a room at the Wyndham Hotel near the airport. The staff there informed us that even their shuttle was restricted by the curfew; they gave us directions to walk 15+ minutes into the DARK LATE NIGHT to find the hotel!
When the hotel realized they had more guests trying to find their way there, they finally arranged for a bus to pick us up along with eight other stranded travelers ! YAH !
Even in the hotel elevators Coronavirus info and a sanitizer station is ‘HANDily’ available.
In the hotel room this notice was prominently displayed on the nightstand. Quito is nestled between two volcanoes that are considered active! Apparently, they have tremors frequently enough that this prep info is provided.
The next day we took a taxi to the AirBnB in downtown Quito. As we rounded a turn in the road, the sight of this city built ON TOP OF A MOUNTAIN RIDGE took my breath away! Photos just don’t capture how majestic this view is. Zoom in close to see the stepped remains of an Inca temple and homes built into the side of the mountain at the base of the city.
By the second week in Quito, I noticed from the condo balcony that police periodically set up Stop and Checks near the intersection below. In a nationwide effort to reduce the virus spread, vehicle and pedestrian mobility were restricted. The odd or even last digit of a vehicle’s license plate determines the days permitted to drive; curfew was narrowed from a start at 9p to now 2p-5a; masks are required whenever in public. Infractions are subject to fines.
During the hours 5a-2p leaving home is permitted for grocery, pharmacy, fitness walks or essential work. Food shopping takes a bit longer than usual, get there too late and the line may be extended onto the sidewalk where the store spray painted yellow circles to create 6-foot distance waiting spots.
Getting closer, it’s nice to have the wall of the grocery store to lean on for support! Note that everyone is wearing masks; some already have on the required gloves. Before entering all will need to clean their gloved hands with sanitizer gel provided by the store.
Along the wall are posters with a variety of exercises encouraging shoppers to make healthy use of their wait time. In recent weeks, the wait has greatly reduced to approximately 5 to 10 minutes.
Just before entering the store, everyone cleans the soles of their shoes on a sanitizer mat; we’re misted with antiseptic alcohol from shoulders to shoe-tops, front and back; temperatures are checked; and if you didn’t bring gloves they provide restaurant quality ones to pull on.
The resto gloves are flimsy and can be difficult to manage; I bought an extra pair of household ones to use just for shopping.
Once in the store, everything is fully stocked; there hasn’t been a shortage of anything due to hoarding panics.
My cousin Suzanne joined me for what was originally just the 2 weeks I planned to stay in Cuenca and Quito. I’m happy that she was able to return to the USA via a State Department evacuation flight on 26 March; just one day later than her schedule.
Even with all the government restrictions and the store's precautions, I see some taking the optional steps of full head to toe protection.
I met the owners of the AirBnB condo for the first time when they came by to address a problem with the hot water heater. I asked, “What is the statue I see on that distance hill?” First, they were puzzled and then shocked when I pointed it out to them. They have never been able to see it from here. Apparently, because of the driving restrictions, the air quality had improved that much in just four weeks.
Now you can clearly see La Virgen del Panecillo. The statue is a total of 135 feet; taller than Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro. It’s about 8 km (5 miles) from the condo.
When I laughingly mentioned to my hosts that my view from the condo of the statue may be the limit of my Quito ‘sightseeing’, they arranged a private taxi tour for me to see as many significant OUTDOOR landmarks as possible. I finally got to see the ‘Dancing Madonna’ up close! This slightly undercover tour was a reasonable fee and worth it just to see beyond walking distance of the condo.
One of the stops was Mitad del Mundo | World Half (middle). It was COVID-closed; in the background is the monument that marks the location of the Equator. You can stand with one foot in the Northern Hemisphere and the other in the Southern.
Plaza Foch is a major entertainment center that spans over several city blocks. Normally, even in the daytime, it’s full of people who flock to enjoy the multitude of restaurants to be found there. At night, clubs add live music and dancing to the mix. I hope to return to all these places after the COVID-19 restrictions are lifted.
On the day I left Dallas, 4 March, I was prepared for a 6-month Wander. As I compared how the pandemic was being handled in the states; I decided it was better to stay in Quito. That opinion was confirmed by a consult with my Dr. via TeleDoc. She clearly stated, “Stay out of the United States for as long as possible.”
I'm grateful to be in a great location considering that I'm having to spend most of my time in the AirBnB condo. I'm in a 6th floor corner unit of a secure building with 24/7 concierge entry; lots of windows provide great natural light. I typically enjoy my meals on the balcony off my bedroom.
All in all, I feel 'medically safe' here in Quito. I came to Ecuador for 3 weeks and now I’ve been here almost 3 months. I don’t know when I will leave, but I’m glad I made the decision to stay. Until then, I’ll just stand in the middle of six-lane downtown throughways and take pictures, LOL!

 

      1. Shema says:

        It has been said, if you want to make God laugh make a plan😂. You never know were life’s journey will take you. Like you said you are not stuck you chose to stay, I wish I was there with you and not in New York, the ( hot spot) you made a wise bold choice. Enjoy life, enjoy the journey.

        1. Lily says:

          Loving the blog! The articles are fun and interesting and the candid photos lend an interesting perspective on daily life! Glad you are safe and enjoying the adventure and embracing the challenges! I want to know more about those foods in your cart!! 😄

          1. Siobhan says:

            ! Thanks Lily ! I’m glad you’re enjoying the blog. I will be sharing more about the foods in the Nomad Kitchen blog section. As a subscriber, you’ll be notified when I post.

  1. Dan Mason says:

    The only thing better than reading about people’s adventures abroad is traveling myself. When I can’t travel, I read from people who do.

    Thanks for sharing.

    “Stay calm! Be brave! Wait for the signs!” You’ll know when it’s safe to return.

    1. Carmen Green says:

      Such an interesting take on your surroundings! Being from Latin America it is fun to see all that you are talking about. What is a new experience for you, are old memories to me. Makes me miss my country (Panama, Rep. of Panama). I am glad that you are fulfilling your dream of being a free spirit and seeing places other wish they had the time and freedom to visit. Keep those stories coming!

  2. Angela says:

    It’s amazing to see all the precautions they were taking, and so quickly! Here in the US, essential workers have no PPE, and there is definitely nobody taking your temp before you go inside, or handing out gloves, masks, or sanitizer. Our cases just keep going up and up!

    1. Siobhan says:

      Thanks for your comment Angela ! Yes, there is no doubt, question or protest among the citizens as to what we need to do to protect ourselves. That’s why when friends ask, ” Are you still stuck in Quito?” I reply, I’M not stuck, YOU are the ones stuck; and I’m greatly concerned for you!

    2. Siobhan says:

      ! Hello Angela ! Thanks for your comment. Yes, indeed the precautions here strongly communicated how serious this global situation has become.

  3. Carmen Green says:

    Such an interesting take on your surroundings! Being from Latin America it is fun to see all that you are talking about. What is a new experience for you, are old memories to me. Makes me miss my country (Panama, Rep. of Panama). I am glad that you are fulfilling your dream of being a free spirit and seeing places other wish they had the time and freedom to visit. Keep those stories coming!

      1. Diana says:

        It is so interesting to read your thoughts on your adventure! Thank you for sharing, and I love the photographs. I feel like I am there with you! I hope you continue to write and post amazing photos. Stay safe, sweet Siobhan!

        1. Siobhan says:

          Thanks Diana ! Thanks for you hanging in with me. I’m starting with new blog posts now. I’ve been offline here because:
          1> It took a bit of time to realize that although the pandemic had changed my nomad plans, I still had a 2020 story to tell; ‘My Unexpected Year in Ecuador’ 😉

          2> June/July I realized it still wasn’t safe for me to return to Dallas for Medicare/ObamaCare Open Enroll; then I had to put much time into creating a digital marketing plan for working remote; and,

          3> Open Enrollment started and it was surprisely very busy in that new working remote world!

  4. Gina says:

    Enjoyed reading your stories and looking at your beautiful pictures. So glad you decided to stay and you continue to be safe. We were in Mexico and we noticed how quickly and thoroughly precautions were put into place. And what is great is that people comply because; 1. They trust the science & 2. They know everyone needs to make sacrifices for the good of the many. In the U.S. now, store workers are getting assaulted – even knifed or shot – because they ask customers to put on a mask. Stay safe! I really miss you!

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